I have an old, post-war, pre-Model 10 with a bulged barrel. This is a shooter, not a pretty or expensive gun. Removing these barrels is fraught with danger, as it's supposedly very easy to bend or crack the frame. I chucked the barrel into my large vise and tried twisting the frame (after I removed the barrel pin) and could see the frame flexing when I applied surprisingly little force. I know that they sell special frame fixtures to help remove barrels, but I had an idea I wanted to run by you guys.
Suppose I made a little wooden casing (or mold) to go around the front area of the frame and then poured molten metal into it. This should give me a large metal block (after it solidified) to support the frame and then I'd chuck the metal block into the vise. When molten, the metal should perfectly conform to all of the contours of the frame, giving it lots of support.
I have a choice of two metals I could use to do this: Lead, which melts at a low enough temperature to not affect the steel's temper (or) Cerrobend, which melts below the boiling point of water.
I'm with the Chickenman on this. Don't think lead is strong enough and I do not know anything about the other. You are on the right tract though. I think you will need to support the frame somehow. You might try a little heat and try it again. Not too much, and like you said stop if you see the frame start to flex.
I just made mine out of plywood and followed the contours of the frame closely. These are from a S&W model 19. I made one for the barrel and one for the frame. I've done this a couple of times.
I've always removed the cylinder and tightened the frame in a vice with bronze padded jaws just at the rear of the barrel. I'd then put a good penetrating oil around the barrel/frame connection and let it sit overnight to make sure no internal rust/corrosion interfered with the process. The next day I'd unscrew the barrel with a padded wrench. If the barrel is already ruined by a bulge, then don't worry about padding the wrench.
The frame can twist at the narrow topstrap if left un supported, but if it is gripped by a vice holding both the topstrap and the body of the frame at the front of the cylinder opening, its not likely to do so.
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