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Nocturnal Specialties
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered a new barrel to finish up my 300WM build..

Its a brand new never fired Savage Stainless fluted 26".

Just wondering how you guys break in a new barrel.

Post Away!!!
 

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http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=513887
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=270387 etc.

Final Finish instructions

I like Tubb's FF. It makes pretty quick work of a new OEM barrel, though I probably wouldn't use it for a hand-lapped custom barrel like a Shilen, Hart, Krieger, etc.

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?tabid=8&categoryid=19833&categorystring=649*** you can find any caliber on this page but you'll have to copy the 3 asterisks to the URL. I dunno why but the MSGO software won't lemme cut and paste a workable link for that address.
 

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I dont reccomend shooting a tubbs final finish unless the throat is already erroding badly...I cant explain why but I have heard this from benchrest shooters.

I reccomend shooting and cleaning for 5-10 eounds maybe as many as 15 if the barrel is bad then a few 2 and cleans.

To clean first wet a patch with butches bore shine run patches until you dont see blue anymore then brush then dry patch twice. YOu will know when the barrel is broken in when you wet patch and it busts through the carbon ring extremely easy.
 

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Is it a lapped barrel that you ordered? If so, no break in needed.

http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10

Shilen, maker of world class rifle barrels, says this about breakin:
How should I break-in my new Shilen barrel?
Break-in procedures are as diverse as cleaning techniques. Shilen, Inc. introduced a break-in procedure mostly because customers seemed to think that we should have one. By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning.
Here is our standard recommendation: Clean after each shot for the first 5 shots. The remainder of the break-in is to clean every 5 shots for the next 50 shots. During this time, don't just shoot bullets down the barrel during this 50 shot procedure. This is a great time to begin load development. Zero the scope over the first 5 shots, and start shooting for accuracy with 5-shot groups for the next 50 shots. Same thing applies to fire forming cases for improved or wildcat cartridges. Just firing rounds down a barrel to form brass without any regard to their accuracy is a mistake. It is a waste of time and barrel life.
 

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I do it this way. Shoot 3 shots then clean and run a patch with JB Bore Paste on it. Shoot 3 shots and repeat the procedure until 15 shots are expended. This gives you a very smooth rifle barrel that won't collect copper fouling easily.

Doug
 

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Nocturnal Specialties
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys, i was reading on the savage forum and everybody you asked had a diff answer.
The barrel is a brand new never fired Factory Savage barrel.

I gotta find some JB Bore Paste.
 

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when i got my new savage, Sargent Major gave me some cast lead bullets and said load them, shoot 3 swab and clean. repeat for 20 shots to brake the barrel in, i trust his judgement.
 

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nonnieselman said:
Thanks guys, i was reading on the savage forum and everybody you asked had a diff answer.
The barrel is a brand new never fired Factory Savage barrel.

I gotta find some JB Bore Paste.
JB paste is sold by Brownell's

Doug
 
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