[jakeg823]

I've never had a gun transferred for any reason. But i've been wondering, when you buy a gun off gunbroker or the like, how do you go about it?

seems like common courtesy would be to call your preferred FFL and ask if they mind? so they dont just have a random gun show up from or for someone they dont even know?

i was just curious, since it often seems to be a comparable price to just buy directly from a local business? especially if their fee is more than $25, which seems to be the standard low price.

 

[Hrdnox]

The seller needs a copy of the FFL cert to ship the gun, so you usually have to contact your FFL for that ahead of time, unless it's a big dealer like Bud's that may have a copy on file. Your FFL will usually fax the license to the seller. As far as price goes, it just depends. Some items can be bought as cheap locally, but some can be bought a lot cheaper online or out of state. I've bought a few items where I saved well over a hundred bucks, even after paying the additional fees. One big expense you have to watch out for is shipping, because sometimes it can spoil an otherwise great deal. Places like Bud's factor it into the selling price, but they do have their little tricks, too, like an additional 3% for CC payments and trying to hit you up for insurance.

 

[SubGunFan]

Yes, first ask your FFL if he will receive a firearm you buy online. If he says yes then ask for a copy of his FFL that you can send to the seller. Your FFL might want to do this himself (but this might slow the process). When you talk to your FFL about a transfer, that is when you both agree on the fee. No suprizes when he is holding a gun you paid for......................

.

 

[shoeshooter]

You definitely want to reach agreement with a FFL prior to buying something. You have to get a copy of their FFL for the seller anyway.

Personally, I'd always prefer to deal locally, even at a slight premium. Also depends if it's something currently in production the dealer can even get. Most of the stuff I buy you'll rarely see at a dealer, unless it's a trade-in.

As far as the fee goes, don't forget the Sales Tax factor. Often what you spend on the fee you save by not paying tax.

 

[jakeg823]

i'm not planning on buying anything, but i do browse those sites from time to time, and I just wanted to be familiar with the process just in case i ever stumble across i just can't live without.

like you said hrdnox, looking at most of the "buy now" prices, its not impressive at all. I can't imagine buying something online that isn't pushing the $100 mark in savings, because for much less than that I'd just assume give my money to a local business, and maybe have a chance of talking them down a hair, or throwing in something(which is harder and harder to do these days)

sorry, i'm sure its been discussed before, but once you type in something like ffl transfer into search you come across everything under the sun, so i gave up on that.

 

[jakeg823]

but they do have their little tricks, too, like an additional 3% for CC payments and trying to hit you up for insurance.

i'd charge the extra 3% too though, since thats usually about what it costs them out of each sale when paid for w/ a card

 

[shoeshooter]

but they do have their little tricks, too, like an additional 3% for CC payments and trying to hit you up for insurance.

i'd charge the extra 3% too though, since thats usually about what it costs them out of each sale when paid for w/ a card

Because of their relatively high average transaction value, I would bet their CC fee is just a hair over 1%, maybe a little less. If it's not they need to shop around for a new provider. Not that it really matters, they charge what they want, we either pay it or pass.

 

[dhollis51]

there are also some FFl'rs on here that will help you out on the transfer, so contact them and they will help you through the process.. also check with them on a price as well.

I bought a XDsc from Buds and saved $150 from any local shop with all the fees.

 

[jakeg823]

but they do have their little tricks, too, like an additional 3% for CC payments and trying to hit you up for insurance.

i'd charge the extra 3% too though, since thats usually about what it costs them out of each sale when paid for w/ a card

Because of their relatively high average transaction value, I would bet their CC fee is just a hair over 1%, maybe a little less. If it's not they need to shop around for a new provider. Not that it really matters, they charge what they want, we either pay it or pass.

I've spoken with several firearms dealers, along with the guy restoring my dad's f250(my younger bros now). And they have all said it depends on the CC company. One we'd paid with at KARS unlimited(our restorer) charged him 4.5%. so we told him we'd pay cash/check. Other prices I've been told are in the 3% range.

 

[Hrdnox]

I wasn't saying they weren't entitled to charge the fee, just that it changed the deal you first saw online. On a high dollar gun, it can make a significant difference. Additionally, I take issue with them charging for insurance. It is optional, but they make you think it's not. Regulations concerning firearm shipping are so stringent that I seriously doubt the need for insurance. It's not much, only $1 per $100, but I feel it's somewhat deceitful.

The point I was trying to make was more of a concern when a person is trying to sell a gun themselves and the buyer chimes in saying I can get the same gun from Bud's for $500. Well, they can't. It may be priced at $500, but you're gonna pay another $15 for CC, another $5 for insurance, and another $25-30 for the FFL fee, so that's gonna add another $45-50 to the listed price. Most of us don't have that much leeway built into our selling price, but some folks expect it just because Bud's prices their guns that way.

 

[mgeoffriau]

When I used to use Don Cresswell (and then later, Paul Clack), I'd usually just shoot them an email after I bought something and ask them to fax their FFL to the seller.

Now I use Gold n Guns Pawn, I generally call first, confirm they will accept the transfer, then tell them I will call back with the fax number so they can send their FFL.

 

[jakeg823]

I wasn't saying they weren't entitled to charge the fee, just that it changed the deal you first saw online. On a high dollar gun, it can make a significant difference. Additionally, I take issue with them charging for insurance. It is optional, but they make you think it's not. Regulations concerning firearm shipping are so stringent that I seriously doubt the need for insurance. It's not much, only $1 per $100, but I feel it's somewhat deceitful.

The point I was trying to make was more of a concern when a person is trying to sell a gun themselves and the buyer chimes in saying I can get the same gun from Bud's for $500. Well, they can't. It may be priced at $500, but you're gonna pay another $15 for CC, another $5 for insurance, and another $25-30 for the FFL fee, so that's gonna add another $45-50 to the listed price. Most of us don't have that much leeway built into our selling price, but some folks expect it just because Bud's prices their guns that way.

I knew what you meant. Yeah 3% on a expensive gun is a bit much, and does change the deal you thought you were getting.

And the price difference you mentioned between Bud's and retail is my biggest hangup about buying a gun online. Like I said it'll have to be a sweeeeeeet deal for my to buy one online.

The ones that say no reserve, does that mean if there's a minute left and I put $5 I could get it? Never been one for bidding on stuff, like eBay, I usually just use Buy Now, bit on gunbroker or the like, that puts you over msrp a lot of times

 

[Hrdnox]

I've wondered about that myself jakeg823. There must be a way to keep that from happening, but it may involve a shill bid which is against the rules on most auction sites. Not sure how they address a situation like that, but I assume there's a way. Probably something in the rules that says the seller doesn't have to accept the bid or something like that. I know that I've never been able to make a closing minute lowball bid work. Every time I've tried, it seemed to push the final price way up past anything reasonable. Perhaps someone else can enlighten us.

 

[jakeg823]

yeah i mean i'd offer something reasonable....most likely ha. but i would do my best to get a deal out of it!

 

[SubGunFan]

I read "No Reserve" as the highest bidder gets the item for that bid. Even if the seller was hoping for $100, and only gets a $10 bid.

.

 

[sigma74216]

Most of the time you after you set up an account you go in there and submit your highest bid. The sight it's self is the only one besides you that knows what your highest bid is. Then it automaticly bids for you if you get out bid by raising your bid by a predetermined amount. That way you don't have to watch it all the time.

 

[sigma74216]

And yes if it's a no reserve item and your the highest bidder no matter the price it's yours, unless seller backs out but that's a big no no but don't know what you do about it besides leave negative feed back.

 

[s_irwin23]

Most gunbroker auctions operate on the 15 minute rule, which means that every time a bid is made in the last minutes of an auction the auction extends another 15 minutes. Sometimes the sellers have friends that will bid against you just to bump the selling price up a little. Also, the "no reserve" auctions are usually a farse because all the sellers generally do is put the starting bid price at what they want to sell the gun for.

 

[jakeg823]

That sounds about right. I'm not a fan of that 15 minute bs like on Beezid and trash like that. We'll see. Got a few guns on my short list that aren't all that expensive to begin with so I may try something eventually

 

[jakeg823]

Just from looking around on GB....I find it odd that to have "no reserve" that so many have a required minimum bid....isn't that the same thing? Like LCR357s which retail for $450 at even the worst dealer, their min bid have all been around $440ish.