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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
By Msrednecks recommendation this thread is for insight on getting started in F-Class competition.
I have been shooting F-Class for almost 4 years now and by no means an expert on shooting. I still learn something at every match. But between myself and some of the other guys on here that shoot regularly we can help jump start you and keep you from making some of the mistakes we made learning. I will start by discussing the classes. There are 2 classes in the sport,
F/TR and Open.
F/TR some people have the misconception that this stands for factory rifle but it is not.
F/TR is limited to 5.56/.223 Remington and 7.62/.308 Winchester unmodified cartridge,( e.g. no ackley improved). The rifle must be fired with a bipod and or sling but will be included in the overall weight. Maximum weight for F/TR is 18.18 lbs (18lbs 3 oz.) including all attachments.
A rear rest such as a rabbit ear bag can be used but will not be included in the weight. Scope of any power can be used. So a full blown custom rifle is legal as long as it makes weight and is chambered in one of the 2 calibers.
Open class is open to any center fire cartridge up to a 35 cal. Maximum weight is 22 pounds and the front rest is not included in overall weight. Most open shooters use the machine rest you commonly see bench rest competitors use. Scope of any magnification.
It is not a NRA rule but most clubs have adopted the no muzzle breaks, and the reason for this is you are firing in close proximity of other competitors and the last thing you want when you are about to break a shot is to get slapped in the face by someone’s muzzle blast. I will add more later about scoring, relay squadding, pit duty, and safety. Maybe some of these other guys such as Limbic,
Mstrophyhunter and Mildot will chime in with their tips and tricks so I can pick up some secrets.
Bill
 

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Hey X-Ring Simmonds is shooting my stock!!! Check out that bipod that's interesting.
Guys load up and come on down to the next match, even if you don't shoot you can spend time in the pit and on the firing line observing and get a better idea of what's going on. This is my first year doing this, thanks to my brother getting me hooked on this, and I love it. This is a great bunch of guys and ladies, and you can pick up a lot good information.
 

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Hey x-ring...see my new thread on what I need for F-class...

Bought a new Rem 700 action today...Thanks for posting this thread...good stuff

Maybe I can get loose to come watch and learn....course you'd need to let me "pop a cap" at the 600 before I left.... :lol4:
 

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x-ring is right come once and you will be hooked . me and my son shot in the first 600 yard at bogue chitto with x-ring when we drove up to firing line and looked down range at 600 i aasked him did he just want to go back home but we stayed and shot glad we did . i have built and shot 6mm284 , 223 , 223ai, 6,5x284, 308 ,6mmbr, 6.5x47, 7mm08 and now have settled on 6x47 lapau shooting 107 sierra match kings and usually do pretty good but when my son does good and places makes me very proud also i have built mine and his rifles he shoots 308 also makes me feel good to win withh something i put together. x-ring does a great job running the matches lots of knowledge on the line and all are willing to help yall come on out and shoot with us
 

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The biggest thing that has hampered me in the last two matches has been the rest. Gun shoots well and the weather was ok but if you can not get your front rest and rear rest in sync then you spend the entire match fighting the gun, moving your rest, adjusting this and than. It is very distracting. I should be watching mirage, wind, and focusing on breathing. Instead I'm fiddling with crap that should be set up.

It is my fault for not working it out at the range before hand.
 

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Best bet would be .308. I would get a good barrel and trigger and roll on. You could compete in the FTR. If you hand load (really need to to be competitive) I would consider a 6x47, or 6.5x47, or 260. I love my 260 but it is a bit heavy to pack around all day in the woods. 14lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I agree with Limbic. I would build a .308 for dual purpose. I may have been misleading in my earlier post. You can be competitive with a heavy barrel factory gun in F/TR. I have seen some factory Savage's and Remingtons with good optics and the right hand loads do very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Squading a match the shooters are divided into 3 groups called relays, and a target number is assigned to each shooter. Relay 1 will shoot first while relay 2 takes a position behind the shooter with a spotting scope and scores relay 1. Relay 3 is in the pits pulling and marking targets. After the block time relay 1 and 2 will swap positions and fire a string. Then there is a pit change and relay 1 goes for their pit duty and relay 3 comes out to shoot. Relays 3 & 2 fire a string each and then another pit change for relay 2 to go to the pits. And this continues until all the strings are fired.
In the pits the competitor pulls the target down after each shot and places a 2” shot marker in the bullet hole and a 4” score marker in the relative score position around the edge of the target indicating what score ring the shot was in. So you get instant feedback with each shot.
Below is the scoring positions around the target

Scoring ring sizes of F-Class targets.
600 Yard Target -
NRA No. MR-1FC
Aiming Black (inches)
X ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.00
10 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.00
9 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.00
8 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.00
7 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.00
6 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.00
Rings in white (inches)
5 ring . . . . . . .48.00

1000 Yard Target
NRA No LR-FC
Aiming Black (inches)
X ring . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.00
10 ring . . . . . . . . . . . 10.00
9 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.00
8 ring . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.00
7 ring . . . . . . . . . . . 44.00
Rings in White (inches)
6 ring . . . . . . .60.00
5 area . . . . . . . . 72x72 Sq

At the Bogue Chitto matches we allow 5 sighter shots on the first string and 2 sighters on the following strings. These are shots you can take at the beginning of the string that do not count toward your score for purpose of zero your rifle for that string. You do not have to take all of your sighters you can fire on shot and then tell your scorer to start scoring, but once you start scoring you cannot go back and take a sighter in the string.
When in the pits there is a impact berm behind the target where you can spot where the shooter shooting on your target where their bullet will strike. So you are able to distinguish them from the other shots fired to know when to pull the target.

In the Pits.
 

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I am really enjoying this thread -- keep it going!!
 

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The person pulling the target must do so in a timely manner. It should take no longer than 15 or 20 sec. to score the shot. Remember the shooter is on a 20 min. time limit to get off 20 or 25 shots. I know that seems like a lot of time to shoot, but it goes by real fast
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Safety: We strive to make each match safe and enjoyable for everyone. Safety is the responsibility of everyone at the matches. If you notice an unsafe condition please politely point it out to the person involved or directly report it to the match director immediately. There are no weapons allowed on the firing line until the pits are sealed. The sealing of the pits is when all personnel designated to the pits are in the pits and the pit officer radios to the line officer that the pits are sealed. Once sealed the pit personnel under no circumstance are to exit the pits without radioing the line and the line officer makes the line cold and radios the pits and gives the OK to unseal. The relay that is firing can bring their gear to the line but not their weapons until the pits are sealed. Rifles when brought to the line can be cased and if not in the case have the bolt open and ECI (empty chamber indicator) in place. Muzzle must be pointed directly up or straight toward the ground and not be brought horizontal until on the line and pointed down range. Immediately after uncasing a rifle at the line the ECI should be installed. The ECI should remain in the rifle until the string is fired and then reinstalled after completion of string. There will be a 3 minute prep period before each relay is fired, during this time the targets will be up but there is no firing during this time. This for the competitors to align their rifles and adjust scopes. After the prep period the targets will be pulled down into the pits. The line director at this time will make sure everyone on the line is ready and will announce the block time for the string and how many sighter and scoring shots and when targets appear your time has begun and you may fire. The line officer will radio the pit officer and give the command targets up shots coming down. If the cease fire command is given immediately unload your rifle, place the ECI in the chamber and step away from your rifle. In the pits if cease fire is called pull all targets down into the pits. Anyone can call a cease fire on the line, scoring or in the pits if they see an unsafe threat. The line officer will make the line safe by verifying all weapons are unloaded, ECI’s are in place and then will assess the threat.
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I did not post last night so I will make up for it. I am not trying to insult anyone, most of you already know this but there is still some that may find this helpful. Probably the biggest mistake I see that new shooters make with their first F-Class match is not being familiar with their scope adjustments and what affect it has at distance. The scope you use should have enough adjustment to come up to put you on target. Trying to hold over just does not work. I’ve seen people try it and they are all over the target. It is helpful to have a scope with target turrets on it to fine tune the elevation and windage because this will change from one relay to the next. Typically a .308 from a 100 yard zero you can come up 15 M.O.A for 600 yards and 34 M.O.A. for 1000 yards and this will put you on paper with the first sighter shot. Then you can adjust to center from there. That is M.O.A. not clicks. I have told this to allot of new shooters and they cranked up 15 clicks only to plow the field about half way to the target. For a ¼ scope that is 4 clicks for 1 M.O.A. and 8 clicks for 1/8 scope. For ease of discussion I will cover ¼ scopes for those with 1/8 double amount for come ups.
¼ scopes
600 yards – 60 clicks up
1000 yards – 136 clicks up
At 600 yards each click will move the bullet impact 1.57 inches (.78 for 1/8 ). At 1000 each click will move impact 2.61 inches (1.3 for 1/8 ). I gave the target scoring ring dimensions in an earlier post and at 600 yards if your shot is just outside the 9 ring you can move your scope 4 clicks and that will put you
In the center of the X. Just outside the 7 ring move 8 clicks to be on center. Now you probably thinking you have to carry a calculator to the line with you, you don’t just remember distance from the center X and the outside edge of the 9 ring is 1 M.O.A. use that as a gage, so if your shot is ½ that distance move 2 clicks, if it’s twice the distance move 8 clicks. I hope this was helpful and if any one has a better method please share, like I said I’m still learning. Here is a link to a good online trajectory calculator. I have found this one to be within about ½ M.O.A. of about every load I have tried.
http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi
Bill
 
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