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Any recommendations on which neck sizing die to buy for a .308. I read on Midway's web site that you should resize the entire case and not just the neck when reloading for a semi-auto rifle. Did I read this right, is this correct?

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No expert here; but this is something experience has taught me from loading .223, .308, and 30.06 in autoloaders and bolt guns.

If you are loading for ONE specific rifle and do not intend to use the reloads in multiple/different rifles, you may be able to get away with just sizing the case neck. In bolt guns this works well most of the time and serves to extend the life of your brass.

When I load a bunch of ammo, I do not load for a specific rifle expect for the .308. I shoot several ARs and a mini-14 in .223, and own several garands in 30.06. In .308 I shoot a Springfield M1A.

I was having problems getting some of my .223 rounds to chamber in several of my ARs. This was even after using a full-length sizing die. Through a lot of trial and error, I purchased a new set of "small-base" dies for the .223. All my chambering problems went away.

I do use a full-length sizing die for my .308 without any problem; however, I use a set of "small-base" sizing dies in 30.06.

Here is the scope as I see it .... In bolt guns you should not have any problem just using a neck sizer. In autos, I would recommend a full-length sizing die or a small-base sizing die. The difference between the full-length and the small-base dies, is that the small-base dies actually sizes a little further down on the case by a couple 100th of an inch. That can make all the difference in the world in some autoloaders. The down side to full-length sizing; especially with the small-base dies, is that you are constantly working the brass each time you reload. This working of the brass stresses it and you will not get as many loads from the brass.

The answer you question, yea, you probably read the Midway recommendation correctly .. Hope this helps.
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