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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, asking this because I'm confusing myself. I already have a Dillon Square Deal that I've been using but I just purchased a new to me Dillon 650 and now I've got to start looking to buy dies and accessories for the new machine. So does anyone have any thoughts good/bad on any brand of dies? I know that I want carbide for pistol dies and I'm leaning towards starting with Dillon brand because of the support that they have but I'm open to ideas. The other brand that I've been looking at is the Lee 4 set.
 

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I like RCBS or Redding. I personally don't care for Lee but most people like them. Hornady are fine.
 

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I've loaded around 100k of 9mm on my 1050. The best setup I've found is a EGW (Lee) U die, Redding competition seater die and a Lee factory crimp die. I've used dillon, redding, and hornady dies sets. I get the fewest case gauge failures and hardly every have any malfunctions that are ammo related. Like maybe 3 out of 100k.

There isn't a single set I would buy. The Lee U die is a must. I wouldn't use any other sizer die. The Redding and Hornady seating dies are the best I've used. Redding is only a bit nicer because it comes with the micrometer. Both have the floating stem and seat from ogive. I really love the lee FCD. But pretty much any taper crimp will do. The FCD just ensures the final dimensions are on point.

I have tool heads for my 650 set up with the same dies for .40 and .45. Never any issues with them either. Only case gauge failures are due to primers not seated or the brass is split or damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've loaded around 100k of 9mm on my 1050. The best setup I've found is a EGW (Lee) U die, Redding competition seater die and a Lee factory crimp die.
There isn't a single set I would buy. The Lee U die is a must. I wouldn't use any other sizer die. The Redding and Hornady seating dies are the best I've used. Redding is only a bit nicer because it comes with the micrometer. Both have the floating stem and seat from ogive. I really love the lee FCD. But pretty much any taper crimp will do. The FCD just ensures the final dimensions are on point.

I have tool heads for my 650 set up with the same dies for .40 and .45. Never any issues with them either. Only case gauge failures are due to primers not seated or the brass is split or damaged.
Why the Lee U die? Is there a reason why an undersize sizer die should be used? Last, I'm not trying to sound stupid but on my SDB it has a powder through and flare die then a seating die on your setup when is the powder added? Is it a die? Thanks.
 

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RCBS or for a tad more money, Redding would be my choice but since you have a substantial investment in that Dillon
already, the Redding should be a no brainer.
 

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I use RCBS and Dillon Dies. The only problem I have ever come across is with the powder through funnel. If you check the neck of the funnel the part that goes into the case prior to the flair it should be about .005" less than the diameter of the bullet you are loading. If not then it needs to be reduced. This is very important when loading .357 sig ammo. I have checked all my funnels and now I know they are correct after a little love. I prefer Dillon dies since they are made for progressive presses. I have replaced a few broken E clips on the primer removal pin over the years when they broke. I still haven't replace a primer removal pin.
 

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Why the Lee U die? Is there a reason why an undersize sizer die should be used? Last, I'm not trying to sound stupid but on my SDB it has a powder through and flare die then a seating die on your setup when is the powder added? Is it a die? Thanks.
A couple of reasons. The first is it sizes all the way to the shell plate. Of course there are other dies that do this so it's not that big a deal. The second is the fact that it sizes slightly under keeps more consistent neck tension on the bullet to prevent set back, get's rid of glock bulge fairly well and the absolute biggest reason is because I have far fewer rounds fail case gauge.

I assume the better pass rate is because older brass that has less elasticity still makes it through the case gauge and chambers perfectly since it sizes down a bit further.

There is nothing worse than blowing a match because of a malfunction. Keeping the ammo feeding 100% is a huge key to being successful.

My 650 has 5 stations:
Station 1 - case feed and decap/size - Lee U Die
Station 2 - Prime/ Powder through Expansion - Dillon funnel/expander and powder die
Station 3 - Powder Check - Dillon
Station 4 - Seat - Redding Competition Die
Station 5 - Crimp - Lee FCD

My 1050 has 8 stations:
Station 1 - Case feeder
Station 2 - Decap/size - Lee U Die
Station 3 - Primer Pocket Swage
Station 4 - Prime (primes on up stroke)
Station 5 - Powder through Expansion - Dillon funnel/expander and powder die
Station 6 - Powder Check - Dillon
Station 7 - Seat - Redding Competition Die
Station 8 - Crimp - Lee FCD
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your 650 should come with a powder measure and powder/expander die.
I'll find out in a couple of days. I'm not going to order anything until I get it set up and see exactly what I'm going to need, I like to have an understanding ahead of time so when I'm ready to start buying I can make an informed mistake (LOL) :groan:
 

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I've loaded around 100k of 9mm on my 1050. The best setup I've found is a EGW (Lee) U die, Redding competition seater die and a Lee factory crimp die. I've used dillon, redding, and hornady dies sets. I get the fewest case gauge failures and hardly every have any malfunctions that are ammo related. Like maybe 3 out of 100k.

There isn't a single set I would buy. The Lee U die is a must. I wouldn't use any other sizer die. The Redding and Hornady seating dies are the best I've used. Redding is only a bit nicer because it comes with the micrometer. Both have the floating stem and seat from ogive. I really love the lee FCD. But pretty much any taper crimp will do. The FCD just ensures the final dimensions are on point.

I have tool heads for my 650 set up with the same dies for .40 and .45. Never any issues with them either. Only case gauge failures are due to primers not seated or the brass is split or damaged.
What he said..
 
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