I concur, also are the caes annealed?SGMJody said:smoffett - I have found that with some LC and other match brass with straight walls going into the primer pocket, you have to have a very light feel for the priming tool and if I meet any resistance, I will rotate the brass about 1/4 turn and try again. I repeat this until the brass is turned to a position where the primer will begin to seat. I then complete the seating process. You don't have to do this with every brass, just the few stubborn ones.
Questions about .308 LC 67 Match brass
Am working up 308 loads for my brother and his boys. Have been using Remington brass and about got the load worked out, and then my brother brings me about 250 of these LC 67 Match brass from his father in law. Looks like once-fired, but can't be sure. (Hoping it wasn't fired in a machine gun.) Questions...
Is this a thick-walled brass with significantly reduced capacity compared to the Rem brass?
If so, any recommendations how far to back off the powder charge from my existing loads?
Roughly how many loads I can get out of these brass?
Any other quirks to this brass I should know about?
For reference, my current load is 46.3-gr Varget, Rem 150-gr core-lokt, Rem brass, CCI primer. Thanks in advance for any advice.
-- Steve
Is this a thick-walled brass with significantly reduced capacity compared to the Rem brass?
If so, any recommendations how far to back off the powder charge from my existing loads?
Roughly how many loads I can get out of these brass?
Any other quirks to this brass I should know about?
For reference, my current load is 46.3-gr Varget, Rem 150-gr core-lokt, Rem brass, CCI primer. Thanks in advance for any advice.
-- Steve
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I concur, also are the caes annealed?SGMJody said:
1 - 1 of 17 Posts
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