Thanks Captain!
Questions about .308 LC 67 Match brass
Am working up 308 loads for my brother and his boys. Have been using Remington brass and about got the load worked out, and then my brother brings me about 250 of these LC 67 Match brass from his father in law. Looks like once-fired, but can't be sure. (Hoping it wasn't fired in a machine gun.) Questions...
Is this a thick-walled brass with significantly reduced capacity compared to the Rem brass?
If so, any recommendations how far to back off the powder charge from my existing loads?
Roughly how many loads I can get out of these brass?
Any other quirks to this brass I should know about?
For reference, my current load is 46.3-gr Varget, Rem 150-gr core-lokt, Rem brass, CCI primer. Thanks in advance for any advice.
-- Steve
Is this a thick-walled brass with significantly reduced capacity compared to the Rem brass?
If so, any recommendations how far to back off the powder charge from my existing loads?
Roughly how many loads I can get out of these brass?
Any other quirks to this brass I should know about?
For reference, my current load is 46.3-gr Varget, Rem 150-gr core-lokt, Rem brass, CCI primer. Thanks in advance for any advice.
-- Steve
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Thanks for the input guys. Another quick question about this brass -- I notice the edge of the primer cup is not as beveled as most other brass I'm used to. It seems the flat face of the cartridge transitions right into the primer cup. I'm wondering if that's going to lead to difficulties seating primers?
Also, I've run into several where the flash hole is significantly off center. Should I set those brass aside?
I have only had good experiences with LC Match brass ... primers should not be a problem. IIRC, no crimp in Match brass ... flash holes off center is a new one to me regarding Match brass ... usually this brass is a lot more consistent than regular LC brass? :thinking:
Also, I've run into several where the flash hole is significantly off center. Should I set those brass aside?
I have only had good experiences with LC Match brass ... primers should not be a problem. IIRC, no crimp in Match brass ... flash holes off center is a new one to me regarding Match brass ... usually this brass is a lot more consistent than regular LC brass? :thinking:
Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Keeping the brass, as it came from my brother's father-in-law. Sounds like it's good to go. Yes, it showed the annealing about 1/4 inch down from the shoulder -- at least it did before I tumbled it.
I like that idea, but I think the alcohol would flow out through the flash hole unless I plug it up. Maybe I could seat a primer in there for that? Would that be safe? Could I deprime it afterwards without the primer blowing up?PhillipM said:To check the volume without measuring tools fill it full of alcohol and pour it into a commercial case. Alcohol doesn't have the surface tension water does and will lay flat.
Well I don't have any spent primers 'cause I always trash 'em right after I pop 'em out. Guess I should have hung onto a few. Oh well.PhillipM said:I'd put a spent primer in for the test. If all you have is a live primer I'd fire it afterwards rather than risk depriming a live primer. I guess you could also jam a toothpick in the flash hole as long as the same amount protrudes into the case. Both need to be sized or both fired from the same chamber.
Good point about sizing them. I think I'll size everything before the test, and I suppose I should also trim them all to the same length to get a good comparison.
Now that's a great idea!
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