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Recoil Table
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Nice Post. I will be saving this one, much appreciated.
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Nice post
If you ae interested, here is a
ShootersCalculator.com | Recoil Calculator
If you ae interested, here is a
link to a
pretty good site that will calculate it for you ..ShootersCalculator.com | Recoil Calculator
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It only took ten years to get a response to this thread.
:lol4:
:lol4:
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But I look at it frequently!
Over 60 years experience shooting and hunting. 40 years experience working on my personal guns.
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I have pulled it up on line before. Most look about right. But a couple I question. I believe stock configuration and if the stock is tight on the shoulder has a bearing on felt recoil and how many clothes the shooter has on.
Deadeye 1: You are right, stock configuration is big on the list of what influences felt recoil. The calculations will tell you how much backward thrust a certain cartridge with a certain weight bullet with a standard factory load in a particular weight rifle will produce, but a well-designed stock with greatly influence how you feel that thrust.
Shooters should be aware of all the factors that go into kick:
1. stock configuration - small drop at comb will direct the kick straight back, and is normally more comfortable.
2. recoil pad vs hard buttplate - plus the size, angle and shape of the buttplate determines how the butt of the rifle digs into your shoulder (some of those old Winchester lever actions with the curved metal buttplate kicked like the dickens!).
3. cheek piece - Weatherby rifles are well-known for having a large cheek piece on the stock, which allows the face to slide smoothly forward when the gun is fired without getting your face slapped.
4. weight of rifle - you can reduce kick of your rifle just by adding some lead to the stock. Modern lightweight rifles will always kick more than the old, wood stock 8 lb+ rifles, all else equal.
5. weight of bullet - lighter bullet, less kick
6. weight of powder - fewer grains of powder, less kick - if you switch to a powder that requires fewer grains to generate the same pressures, you'll get the same velocity with less recoil.
7. speed of bullet - reduce your load just a bit, and you get a twofer: less kick from a slightly slower speed bullet, and less kick from fewer grains of powder.
Shooters should be aware of all the factors that go into kick:
1. stock configuration - small drop at comb will direct the kick straight back, and is normally more comfortable.
2. recoil pad vs hard buttplate - plus the size, angle and shape of the buttplate determines how the butt of the rifle digs into your shoulder (some of those old Winchester lever actions with the curved metal buttplate kicked like the dickens!).
3. cheek piece - Weatherby rifles are well-known for having a large cheek piece on the stock, which allows the face to slide smoothly forward when the gun is fired without getting your face slapped.
4. weight of rifle - you can reduce kick of your rifle just by adding some lead to the stock. Modern lightweight rifles will always kick more than the old, wood stock 8 lb+ rifles, all else equal.
5. weight of bullet - lighter bullet, less kick
6. weight of powder - fewer grains of powder, less kick - if you switch to a powder that requires fewer grains to generate the same pressures, you'll get the same velocity with less recoil.
7. speed of bullet - reduce your load just a bit, and you get a twofer: less kick from a slightly slower speed bullet, and less kick from fewer grains of powder.
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Right you are. Worst shotgun I ever shot that wasn't 3" magnum was an old Long Tom 32" bbl single shot 12 gauge. That thing hurt. Second worst was a Rossi Coach gun with 3" shells, both barrels at the same time.
On second thought, maybe they tied....
On second thought, maybe they tied....
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