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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As many of you know...I just recently acquired my 300 Win Mag.

I'd like to start reloading for it and have a quick question for you more seasoned rifle reloaders.

I've heard that it is often difficult to reload the belted magnums such as the 300 Win because a slight bulge occurs just above the "belt" right above the ring and it never gets fully reduced by conventional reloading dies.

To combat this issue I've been looking at a belted magnum Collet Resizing die from Innovative Technologies.

Check it out at www.larrywillis.com

Can those of you who reload 300 Win Mag educate me as to issues I might run into reloading this cartridge...

I'm still looking at dies...trying to decide what to get...my "heart" says L.E Wilson with an Arbor press....my wallet says a set of Lee's with a collet neck sizer
 

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neck i actually have one for my 338wm I have only had to use it a hand full of times. Usually about the 4th-5th reload I was starting to see the bulge. After the 6-7th reload my brass goes in the trash any way so not that big of a savings. I have a Forster benchrest die set for mine that seems to keep the bulge at bay. So maybe get a good full length sizer die and put that money to something else. As far as a good press. I am rocking out a vintage rcbs rockchucker so you dont really need to piss away $200+ dollars on a sinclair benchrest press to get the job done.

P.S arbor press dies wont work on anything else but a arbor press, well you can use a soft mallet but we wont go there.
 

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You wrote, in part, "I've heard that it is often difficult to reload the belted magnums such as the 300 Win because a slight bulge occurs just above the 'belt' "

While this is probably of no help to you at all, years ago my big bore was a 30-338 Win Mag. I never experienced any bulging in the case as you describe. And, never had any trouble with it.

During the same period I was reloading a 7mm Rem Mag (essentially the same case as the 30-338,) and never had any problem with 'bulges'.

Does that help any?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah they say after as few as a couple reloads you'll start seeing bulge....with the collet die I mentioned they claim as many as 20 "hot" reloads can be achieved....

I'd a thunk you would have case necks splitting way before then

Just trying to find out from those in the know...cause I sure don't

Beladran, the reason I'm looking at the arbor press and LE wilson dies is because they are suppose to be superior..especially with bullet run out...The Bench rest folks ooooh and ahhhhh over em.... I dunno....it might be overkill

I aint gonna make more than 200 - 300 a year of these bad boys...so reloading time aint that big a deal....then I can concentrate on a few other calibers
 

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just wondering but what did you buy? was it a sendero? unless you plan on going all out precision on your reloading equipment i would say dont waste your time and money. Its just like a computer, all the RAM in the world aint gonna help you if your processor sucks. I would also suggest going low tech on rifle reloading no automatic anything. Keep it simple with old school powder scales, a powder trickler, a micrometer, and dial caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yep...I'd heard that as well...and I'd only planned on neck sizing and only brass fired in the gun...

Beladran, I got a Savage 111 bolt synthetic. Next "fix" is a H&S Precision stock...more "goodies" later
 

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SJ said:
I was under the impression that if you neck size only you will not get the bulge as the cases get fire formed with each use.
There must be something different about the small belted mags vs the larger ones. If you only neck size my 338 then after the second reload you need a mallet to close and open the bolt.

One of the things I have learned is once you start reloading for your magnum dont go out and buy any loaded rounds for "backup". Factory ammo headspaces off the belt and has been sized for the tightest chamber and the shortest neck so it will function in any rifle.

This is a letter from a weapons developer regarding belted magnums that I got forwarded on and saved, take it for what its worth but i would bet money this guy has more degrees than a thermometer

Neck sizing doesn't work for belted cases; it's not going to produce the
best accuracy and most so-resized belted cases won't rechamber in the same
rifle anyway. Whenever someone thinks neck sizing does work, I'm convinced
they haven't shot enough test groups with enough shots per group to be
significantly worthwhile.

Most belted case rifles need their fired cases sized all the way back to
the belt by the full-length die. That's because most folks load these cases
too hot and the unsupported case immediately in front of the belt expandes
enough that it won't chamber fully, even after typical full-length sizing.
Most folks think the bolt won't close because the shoulder isn't set back
far enough, so they screw the FL die down, then resize again. When this
happens, the shoulder gets set back further and further as the die finally
gets the body diameter in front of the belt small enough to let the case
be chambered. When so-sized cases are fired, the shoulder being back many
thousandths from the chamber's shoulder blows forward and the pressure ring
thins. After only a few FL sizings and firings using such practices, the
case will have a head separation. I'm convinced this is the most common
cause of short belted case life so many folks have. The cure is to cut
the powder charge a couple of grains and set the FL sizing die in the press
only far enough to set the fired case's shoulder back about .001-in. Case
life will greatly increase and accuracy will get better, too. Plus, the
peak pressures are going to be back down for what the case and rifle was
designed for in the first place. Had I not observed dozens of belted case
rifles having these case life problems, I would not have believed it to be
a reality.
 

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Since I've been reloading, about 75% of the rifles I've reloaded for have been belted magnums. I've never experienced this "case bulge" problem.

Nowadays when I resize a case (belted or not) I use a Redding body die to bump the shoulder back about .002" (measured with a Stoney Point gauge) and then I neck size with a Lee collet neck die.
 

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See my 5/29 posting above.

This, now, is strictly for academic interest.

I thought you might like to take a peak at this. In another Topic (“Why I chose the 300 Win Mag”) I made a posting (5/29) about my 30-338. In that posting I wrote, “My grandson has that rifle now.”

Just for the fun of it I asked if they had any of my original reloading notes. My daughter sent me a copy of a handwritten page of data that came from my reloading stuff. This was for the 110gr Sierra Hollow Point for the 30-338 (prairie dogs, etc – this was before I got my 22-250). There’s gotta be more stuff out there.

I converted the handwritten data to an Excel spreadsheet, pasted below.

Now here’s the caveat. Don’t take this at face value. Back then, as I recall, I had some sort of slide-rule-like apparatus (calculator) that could be used to work up loads. But I do not recall that much about it.

Again this is just for academic interest. This is not in anyway a recommendation for this particular load in the 30-338.

30-338: 110gr Sierra Hollow Point
Bullet Length: 27/32"
Barrel Length: 20 29/32"
Bullet Travel 21 3/4"
Calculator Correction
Ballistic Coefficient 0.166
Case Capacity 82.2 gr
Grns Powder 69.3 66
Ratio 0.6 0.63
Powder 4350
Expansion Ratio 5.85
Velocity 3409 3423.8
PSI 42000 44500


Calculated Loads with 4350
Grns Velocity PSI
69.3 3428.8 44500
70.0 3458 45390
70.7 3492 46280
71.4 3526.5 47170
*72.1 3560.8 48060

* Load used
 

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I'm embarassed over how that posting turned out. Don't know how to lay a spreadsheet into this forum format.

Fine as I recall. Not fun, mind you.

You couldn't stay too long on a prairie dog town - thus the 22-250. Keep in mind this reloading note was from the late 60's.

Stay in touch about goin' out.
 
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