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This is a neat sight in post! Last month I mounted an optic
on my AR and fortunatly there was another fellow sighting
a new optic install too. He had the correct sight-in info..
Short version is sight in at 25yds..( 30 meters is close).
You should be dead-on for 25 to 250 yards.
Wish I had this then. I could have helped us both.

PS. I just registered here as a newbeeee.
Hello from a Mississippi Native Son here in the high mountain
dessert of Northern Nevada. Born in Natchez and grew
up in eastern Franklin County, with an adult hatius
in Pike County.
 

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Something I found many years ago, and works!!!

(Listed Below are the procedure for sighting in the AR15/M16 for 200 meters or 25 meters)
An Improved Battlesight Zero

for the M4 Carbine and M16A2 Rifle

1. Current Army/Marine Corps battlesight zero and it's procedures are well described in TM9-1005-319-10, the M16/M4 operator's manual. Procedures in the manual will not be repeated here.

2. The current 300 meter battlesight zero is a function of the sights on the rifle and I personally find it shoots too high for the vast majority of combat targets, including the Army's qualification ranges. The procedure listed here takes better advantage of the flat trajectory of these rifles as well as the use of civilian ranges, which are seldom surveyed in meters.

3. When zeroed at 200 meters, a distance twice that of normal combat engagements, these rifles have a very flat trajectory that is less then 2" from line of sight at all intermediate distances; a distance that's smaller than the normal dispersion of arsenal or factory loaded ammunition. This tiny trajectory arc allows very precise shooting out to 250 meters where the bullet is only 2" below line of sight.

4. A 200 meter zero has the happy coincidence of an initial trajectory cross-over at 50 yards, a distance available on almost all civilian ranges including many indoor ranges. This makes it easy to achieve a 200 meter battlesight zero without recourse to surveying your own range. If 200 meters is available you can fine-tune the zero at the real distance. And should when you get the chance.

5. The lowest sight setting, however, on these sights is 300 meters so the sight needs to be modified to preserve the markings on the sight (despite the fact that no one ever sets a range on these in the real world other than a USMC range). The sight needs to be set to bottom out at 8/3 -2 clicks. This will be the new 200-meter setting.

1. Flip the rear sight back to the unmarked aperture. This will reveal a hole in the top of the handle.

2. Rotate the sight wheel all the way down. Will probably be exactly at 8/3 (6/3). Don't force it down.

3. Using a 1/16" Allen wrench loosen the screw (under the revealed hole) in the sight wheel 3 full turns. Leave the wrench in the screw.

4. Rotate the bottom half of the sight wheel two clicks clockwise. This will raise the sight body if you look at it while you're turning it.

5. Tighten the Allen screw, remove the wrench, and confirm the sight bottoms out at 2 clicks BELOW 8/3. If not repeat the procedure until it's right.

6. Battlesight the rifle per the -10 with the following exceptions:

1. Sight should be at 8/3 -2 clicks, that is, all the way down, not up a click. Please note removable handle sights are marked 6/3 (rather than 8/3); also some are in ‘half-clicks’ as well. There should be 3 clicks between 3 and 4 on the knob. If there are 6 clicks then the sight needs to be set at –4 clicks (instead of –2).

2. Small aperture, nose to firing handle weld.

3. Distance is 50 yards.

4. Point of aim should be point of impact of bullet.

7. Remember you're adjusting the FRONT SIGHT for elevation, not the rear, and that each click is about 1/2" (actually a little more) at 50 yards. You won't get it closer than that. Don't frustrate yourself trying.

8. You're done. Leave the sight in this position for 99% of your shooting.

9. If you have to shoot targets you KNOW are 300 meters away or more, just click to the right number on the sight.

10. If you're patrolling set the sight to 8/3 and snap the aperture forward to 0-2. This will provide the same trajectory as above but with a larger, easier to see thru rear sight. Use this setting if you also have the M68 mounted as it's quicker to transition to if the sight fails.

11. If you have an M68 CCO (Aimpoint CompM-XD) optical sight battlesight it to 50/200 as well. You can shoot to 300 meters by merely holding "over a dot."

12. This battlesight zero is valid to 300 meters for both the M16A2 and M4 Carbines and their AR15 sisters. It's valid with any ammunition that approaches the specs for M193 (55gr) or M855 (62g) Ball ammunition. It works for both rifles and carbines due to the offsetting influence of higher muzzle velocity in the rifle being offset by the longer sight radius that moves bullet strike less per click. This is battlesight, not X-ring shooting!

13. This battlesight zero does not reflect the doctrine of the US Armed Forces, however, it reflects the personal use of these weapons in combat and in training for over 34 years.

14. Comments to: Lt. Colonel Chuck Santose ([email protected]).

Original document: 990104

Copyright 1999, 2000. All rights reserved.

Note To Users of Carbines with the A1 style rear sight: This zero works really well. If you have the original sight aperture use the unmarked (short range) hole to zero the rifle. If you have upgraded, and use the A2 stype aperture (or the A.O. Same Plane sight), then use the small (long range) hole for zeroing.
 

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I got strange results with my AR 15 when I installed my scope. I used a medium mount trying to keep the scope as low as possible. When I got everything installed I went out and zeroed it at 25 yds and it did ok with grouping there. It was a little windy that day and cold so I didn't shoot it at 100 yds that day. Later on the conditions improved so I took it back out and shot at 100 yds. At 100 the poi was about 8" high. I adjusted it back down to shoot on at 100 yds. Then tried it at 25 again after the 100 yd zero it is about 1" high at 25 yds and was about right at 50. I raised it to about 1/2" high at 50 and left it alone.

With all my other rifles I have always zeroed at 25 yds and they shoot at 100 yds around 3" high. I would center the group over the target at 100 and hunt with it. The AR was extremely high at 100 zeroed at 25 so I went this route with it and am now satisfyed with it. The 223 is a dpms flattop and the rings are one peice base and rings that I mounted to the top rail the base is a medium high setup. I tryed to use only rings on the rail but that wouldn't work so I had to go this route to put the 3x9x40 scope as low as I could get it on the rifle.

This is my first dealings with a ar style rifle. The rifle shoots fine with brass factory loads and even better with my reloads. It's a keeper and fun to shoot. just not what I'm used to and have used for the past 45 years. I'm a bolt action man at heart but I wanted to try the ar style rifle.

This was the cheapest entrylevel AR I could find. It seems like it's fine for my planned uses and I may get a better one someday but for now I'm satisfyed.
 

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clayton454 said:
If you're using Nikon optics, get the Spot-On app for your smartphone or tablet...i really like it and I think you will too.
For what i have spent with nikon that app should be free
 

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I couldn't get any of the links to work. After trying to shoot and adjust, I ended up putting the upper part of my ar on the bench, bore sighted a light some 250 yds away and then adjusting my scope to it. (Yes, this was done at night) I'll check my results tomorrow when it is light.



Lock 'n Load, Tapatalk!!
 

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I used to think a 25 yard zero was the best until I found this forum (https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/36-yard-zero-is-the-best-combat-zero-for-the-AR15/5-2123606/) on the 36-yard zero.

The link shows the grouping based on the respective zeros. If I have a LPVO on my AR I will probably stick to the 100 yard zero. For my 10.5 inch pistol with an Eotech on it, I used the 26-yard zero because I can put the donut of death on the target and be good anywhere from 25-50 yard. Past that, the spread still isn’t bad.
 

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Digging up a old thread I see.

I'm not sure how to get my point across but I'll try.

It's important to get your setup correct for the application and check it at several different distances to verify it.

For instance I use a 12.5" 6.8 SBR for hog hunting. So I'll do a 50 yard zero with 105 grain Cavity Back Bullets. I'm good for a 200 yard shot and hold top of the back at 300 yards.

On a 20" 223 with 53 grain Varmageddon I use for coyote hunting I'll do a good 225 yard zero and can hold center from point blank out to 300 yards.

300 Win Mag I use on the farm for deer with a 200 grain ELDX i do a 300 yard Zero and have my rise/drop from point blank to 1000 yards


If your doing a setup for self defense, I'm not sure how to answer that. I don't see having to use anything for a 300 yard shot without future serious legal issues.

But to be prepared for future society breakdown, etc. I'd be doing alot of studying charts, velocity, temps, all the not fun stuff. Work it out on paper then go verify it.
Might find better ballistics with a bullet change.

Don't forget the changes possible from heat of the summer to the cold of winter....

Just thinking out loud.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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I use an app named Stretlok. Mounted my scope and adjusted for 25 yard zero on paper. I then punched in all of the scope info, ballistics, weather, weapon info and it gave me a scope adjustment for whatever distance I desired my zero to be. Very first shot at 250 yards was in the center. Pulled my scope turrets and set them to zero.
 

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This is a neat sight in post! Last month I mounted an optic
on my AR and fortunatly there was another fellow sighting
a new optic install too. He had the correct sight-in info..
Short version is sight in at 25yds..( 30 meters is close).
You should be dead-on for 25 to 250 yards.
Wish I had this then. I could have helped us both.

PS. I just registered here as a newbeeee.
Hello from a Mississippi Native Son here in the high mountain
dessert of Northern Nevada. Born in Natchez and grew
up in eastern Franklin County, with an adult hatius
in Pike County.
welcome-to-the-team.jpg
 

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Digging up a old thread I see.

I'm not sure how to get my point across but I'll try.

It's important to get your setup correct for the application and check it at several different distances to verify it.

For instance I use a 12.5" 6.8 SBR for hog hunting. So I'll do a 50 yard zero with 105 grain Cavity Back Bullets. I'm good for a 200 yard shot and hold top of the back at 300 yards.

On a 20" 223 with 53 grain Varmageddon I use for coyote hunting I'll do a good 225 yard zero and can hold center from point blank out to 300 yards.

300 Win Mag I use on the farm for deer with a 200 grain ELDX i do a 300 yard Zero and have my rise/drop from point blank to 1000 yards


If your doing a setup for self defense, I'm not sure how to answer that. I don't see having to use anything for a 300 yard shot without future serious legal issues.

But to be prepared for future society breakdown, etc. I'd be doing alot of studying charts, velocity, temps, all the not fun stuff. Work it out on paper then go verify it.
Might find better ballistics with a bullet change.

Don't forget the changes possible from heat of the summer to the cold of winter....

Just thinking out loud.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
I’ll always take a good opportunity to resurrect an interesting, but old, thread.

As far as my contribution goes, I would only use the 36 yard zero for my Eotech since its purpose is not exactly for precision as much as it is for getting hits on target. At 36 yards, the bottom sight post on the reticle is perfect for 7-ish yards. The main reason I like it for the Eotech is pure simplicity of use for a variety of distances, i.e. the donut of death and the minimum spread.

As far as taking shots in a self/home defense scenario from anywhere past 50 yards (given the circumstances, of course) well, a justifiable shot turns into murder pretty darn quick.
 

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I bought a new Panther Arms AR-15 5.56/.223 on Friday. Today I received a laser bore-sighter in the mail and tried it out in the back yard using with factory iron sights at 50'.

The elevation was spot on, but the laser was off to the right 8-10". It took just about all of the adjustment on the rear sight to bring it into alignment.

Is something out of whack from the factory? I removed and reinserted the laser with no change.

Thanks.
 

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I bought a new Panther Arms AR-15 5.56/.223 on Friday. Today I received a laser bore-sighter in the mail and tried it out in the back yard using with factory iron sights at 50'.

The elevation was spot on, but the laser was off to the right 8-10". It took just about all of the adjustment on the rear sight to bring it into alignment.

Is something out of whack from the factory? I removed and reinserted the laser with no change.

Thanks.
You’d have to shoot it to confirm. Bore sighter are meant only to get you on paper not replace the typical sighting in process. Until you actually shoot it there is no way of knowing which one is defective. If the rear sight has to go all the way to one side in order to put actual rounds on target, then you might have an issue.
 

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You’d have to shoot it to confirm. Bore sighter are meant only to get you on paper not replace the typical sighting in process. Until you actually shoot it there is no way of knowing which one is defective. If the rear sight has to go all the way to one side in order to put actual rounds on target, then you might have an issue.
OK, thank you very much. I will receive a red dot sight tomorrow and head to Magnolia most likely on Wednesday.
 
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