[crossedcannons45]

I have seen these subjects debated to great lengths (beat to death) on other forums so I thought that my "home" forum could use a thread about it, kind of a rite of passage for the forum of sorts.

In my internet travels, I have read about people cleaning thier guns with everything from Hoppe's to brake cleaner and lubing it with everything ranging from Outer's to bacon grease (yup!) to 10w 30 synthetic motor oil. I personally use Hoppe's but I have some brake cleaner and Mobil 1 on standby for when I'm feeling brave.

What do you guys (and gals) use for care and feeding and why?

 

[talonted]

I use remoil. it's cheap and it works. until I find something better, not gonna switch.

 

[Subsonix]

I like Remoil for applying a light coat in hard to get to areas. Otherwise I use Bob Marvels oil. It's my new favorite. The Outers brand isn't bad either for the price.

For cleaning I use Hoppes, Outers, or whatever is closest to me. I'm not too picky about solvents like I am oils. I clean my guns a lot, so it usually doesn't take much scrubbing. I usually buy whatever is on sale.

Brakefree CLP is a staple item. Many many uses.

 

[msredneck]

I clean my guns inside...in the kitcken



Gunzilla - no smell...keeps the wife happy

Sometimes Kroil

 

[jbpmidas]

CLP!

SGMJody uses dry cleaning solvent. Worked wonders on my 1911 after shooting lead through it for the first time. He also used a foam lead remover in the bore.

Have I mentioned how great it is to have a mentor?

 

[Hammer]

Gunzilla love it!

 

[Subsonix]

I'm going to have to try the Gunzilla.

I have to go outside with the Brakefree, stinks too bad for me. No problem with the wife when cleaning guns inside, though. She actually likes the smell of gun cleaners and oils.

Where have you guys been getting the Gunzilla? Is it as good as Brakefree, but without the smell?

 

[msredneck]

Get Gunzilla online here

http://www.topduckproducts.com/

 

[vranasaurus]

FP-10, CLP, and Tetra gun grease for lube.

Shooters choice bore cleaner.

I have used brake cleaner when something needs thourough cleaning but you have to avoid getting it on plastice and it strips off all oil.

This is what I happen to use but you can lube and clean a gun with many products that work. Truth be told many lubes and cleaners probably have very similar formulas.

A thread titled stuff not to use would probably be more useful. Like WD 40.

 

[msredneck]

WD40 :rotflmao:

I remember when I locked up a Remington 1100 shotgun tighter than d**k's hatband in the middle of a dove field with birds all around using that stuff

Had to detail strip the gun and soak parts...The great grit and grime attractant

 

[wesm]

Jim Brown, the rangemaster at Turcotte Center on Hwy 43 south of Canton, is an authorized reseller of Gunzilla, in case anyone wants to get it locally.

 

[Hammer]

Jim Brown, the rangemaster at Turcotte Center on Hwy 43 south of Canton, is an authorized reseller of Gunzilla, in case anyone wants to get it locally.

Actually, so am I. I have just never ordered a case of it as it goes a long way.

 

[Xd357]

My new favorite is sweets 7.62 solvent. Others I use is hoppes#9, breakfree, rimoil.

 

[moredes]

Dang! Ya'lls high-line. I'm a scrounger and coupon king... at least when it comes to gun cleanin' and lubing.

For lead fouling, I use Chore-boy scouring pads, with or without steel--I used the copper-coated CB pads before I found out they'd changed over from pure copper, and after I found out they were coating steel mesh with copper, I inspected my barrels and compared them and see no difference whatsoever. No more of those time-consuming swap-outs of expensive Lewis Lead Remover mesh screens. $2 worth of Chore Boy pads last 4-5 years. I just cut a little of the CB and wrap it around an old worn out bore brush and scrub back and forth til the barrel's warm. That usually does it--40 seconds, tops. Beat that with the Lewis Lead system.

For copper fouling, I pay the freight and use Hoppe's.

For everything else, I clean with Ed's Red. It's cheeep (that's my middle name), and I've usually got all the ingredients lying around in the garage. Here's the recipe:

1 part ATF (Dexron II, IIe or III, it doesn't matter)

1 part Kerosene

1 part Mineral Spirits

1 part Acetone (I don't use this--it's recommended as an ingredient when scouring shotgun barrels for plastic wad fouling)

I just store it in a plastic squirt bottle--if you add the acetone, you'll have to store it in a metal container--the acetone will eventually eat through plastic, and you'll have one helluva mess (aside from ruining whatever table etc you're storing it on).

For lubricant, Mobil One 20-50w because that's what I had layin' around. 10-30's okay, too, but the 20-50's less viscous. For fast moving parts where oil-slinging is a concern, I add a dab of Lubriplate and slush the two together. I've had a one-cup tin of Lubriplate since 1978. I'm about 1/2-way through it.

The great thing about Mobil One is, all I really need is "what's left in the bottle" after I pour the rest into an engine. I just stack up the containers upside down for a couple days to harvest my gun lube. Same for the Ed's Red ATF--there's always a extra 1/2 pint fresh ATF leftover after my tranny changes.

 

[crossedcannons45]

I used to work with a guy who was a cavalry scout and worked alot with EOD and special forces in Iraq and he liked to tell stories ( I cant vouch for the accuracy being 100% but they were interesting) and I liked to listen to them so we got along rather well. Anyway he said that while they were out one day they ended up with seizing a weapons cache but upon further inspection the guns were rusted so bad they may as well have been welded together but they took them to the armorer anyway and he couldnt do anything with them and disposed of most of them except for a 50 cal that this guy insisted on keeping so he took it and went to wherever they maintain the vehicles and found a 50 gallon drum of used motor oil and put said weapon in it and applied heat for about 6 hours and then just let it sit for a few days, at the end of this story he produced a picture of him on a humvee manning a 50 cal and informed me that the gun in the pic was the oil soaked weapon. I think I might get an old beater 1911 and try this method of lubing one day to see if it works, it sounds reasonable if you just let it drain out really good before you carry it and of course take the stocks off of it before bathing it in old motor oil

 

[msredneck]

Gunzilla aint very expensive...a quart lasts me a year and I clean a hell of a lot of guns...

Too much BS to mix up all that other stuff....main thing is the other stuff smells like sh!t and I hate being relegated to the garage for cleaning....cause the house smelled like a chemical plant

Lots of that stuff will ruin a nice wood finish if you have a boo boo and spill some

As for Sweets...its good for copper but the amonia in it is horrible and you gotta make sure you get it all out or it will eat a barrel up

The best lubricant I've ever seen is Krano Kroil....Benchrest shooters use it ...for a reason

I use Hoppe's #9 for aftershave

 

[nhstk02]

No Hoppe's #9 is for cologne. I love the smell of that stuff.

 

[mascott]

Eezox is my choice.even help with moisture.

 

[Leland1]

Hopes #9
Hoppes Gun Cleaner
Break free clp and Hoppes gun oil for lube.

 

[Docs150]

Been using the MPro7(No smell) for almost 9 months now after years of Hoppes#9 and my old favorite Shooters Choice. Always use Break-Free CLP unless I use old bottle of Outers for a lighter oil(Ruger MkII Target). With stainless steel needing more lube I find the Break-Free has an un-noticeable 'build-up' that protects and the usual 3-4 days before oil evaporates (typical) takes longer once Break-Free gets into the metal. It's the original Slick-50 and better quality. Yes, I have used brake-cleaner and other oils in past (Remingtons' Dry Lube spray-didn't like the way some gun-parts moved).