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Yes, definitely a Swede. Check out Mr. Bowser's book if interested in more info.
 

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I've NEVER seen one of those bayonets with rust. The Swedes found their steel to be so superior to others' steel - namely superior to German Mauser steel - that Oberndorf am Neckar (Mauser factory in the Black Forrest) only manufactured the Model of 1896 for 2 years for Sweden, 1899 and 1900. After that the Swedes paid Mauser for the rights to manufacture 1896 rifles in Sweden. Presumably the bayonets are made of the same fine steel. They are terrific knives, now you need a terrific rifle to go with it.
 
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Markings on scabbard would indicate it was issued for a rifle with serial # ending in 690, Company L, and if that is an "I 24" it would indicate 24th Infantry Division.
 
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I have one like this with differing markings and the
scabbard is within what I would call a "frog" that is old
leather and a bit stiff so I am having literal fits getting
it off the scabbard for a better look, it isn't adhered to
the scabbard, just a SNUG fit and then some.
Does anyone know if this fits not only the 96 Swede
but also the later shorter model 38?
 

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I have one like this with differing markings and the
scabbard is within what I would call a "frog" that is old
leather and a bit stiff so I am having literal fits getting
it off the scabbard for a better look, it isn't adhered to
the scabbard, just a SNUG fit and then some.
Does anyone know if this fits not only the 96 Swede
but also the later shorter model 38?
Yes it should, IIRC.
Get that frog off of the metal scabbard ASAP as the leather tanning chemicals are one thing that can damage the Swedish scabbard's steel. I have several different frogs but they are stored separately from the bayonets themselves. The leather tanning chemicals actually have started working on the brass buckles of the frogs; I have to clean them during periodical PM sessions.
 

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Yes it should, IIRC.
Get that frog off of the metal scabbard ASAP as the leather tanning chemicals are one thing that can damage the Swedish scabbard's steel. I have several different frogs but they are stored separately from the bayonets themselves. The leather tanning chemicals actually have started working on the brass buckles of the frogs; I have to clean them during periodical PM sessions.
I managed to get the frog off with difficulty, it was held
by the retention strap and the leather had apparently
shrunk significantly with age so I had to cut that strap
in order to get it off. I know where I can buy a
replacement frog but the portion of the scabbard that
was covered by the frog is nasty, rust or whatever.
Any thoughts on a method of removing the stuff, a
soak in Hoppe's #9 or WD-40 or some other heavy
duty solvent perhaps? By soak I do mean total
immersion in a pan full for as long as it takes.
 

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I managed to get the frog off with difficulty, it was held
by the retention strap and the leather had apparently
shrunk significantly with age so I had to cut that strap
in order to get it off. I know where I can buy a
replacement frog but the portion of the scabbard that
was covered by the frog is nasty, rust or whatever.
Any thoughts on a method of removing the stuff, a
soak in Hoppe's #9 or WD-40 or some other heavy
duty solvent perhaps? By soak I do mean total
immersion in a pan full for as long as it takes.
Try Kroil Oil to start
 

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As I understand the tanning process it involves lots of salt, (NaCl), and a good bit of acid. So, I'd say rinse/soak first with water and baking soda (in the crud area);
then use a weak Lewis base ie Acetone or ammonia to scrub residue. Rinse again with water only dry quickly. (use natural bristle brush or nylon)
:2cents: out of my last dollar.
(Wife may think you're giving yourself a "curly hair permanent")
 

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Try Kroil Oil to start
Phillip, I have Kroil on hand so that is the first method
I'll try, wish me luck since the rest(unaffected) portion
of the scabbard is as pristine as the one in the earlier
photos. I may well try the other method at some point
once I hit the store for the ingredients that Quickeye
suggested.
 
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Once you get the salts removed, dry thoroughly and go with Kroil and fine steel wool. Let us know how it turns out.
 
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